Cankers, oozing sap, fruit scab, fruit rot, leaf spots or leaf curl, and are all signs that pathogenic fungi/ bacteria are out competing beneficial fungi/ bacteria, on your fruit trees. It’s a numbers game. Simple as that. Whoever owns the space, rules the day. Your job is to turn the equation on its head, so that the beneficials rule the roost and fill the space, leaving no room for the pathogens. It really is that simple, and we have the answers at hand. Allay the panic, my friends.
Before we get going with the practical stuff, lets clear your mind of the wish for an instant fix. Our solutions lie within the web of life. A web is resilient because of it’s many strands. When a few break, the rest hold the ship steady while the organisms for repair, swoop in allowing life, in all its glory, to continue on. The health of your garden, is a web, it rests on many strands. There are no instant fixes in a resilient system.
Begin
Best garden health springs from a solid, wise set up. Read through my healthy fruit tree game plan – step by step guiding you, to resilient fruit trees. Whenever you get stuck, revisit this information and remind yourself of your holistic path. Use it as a check in when anything goes awry, at the same time asking yourself “What does my garden (as a whole), need more, or less of?”
Its entirely possible to sidestep outrageous populations of pathogenic fungi, they aren’t inevitable you know! New gardens, and gardens transitioning to a holistic style, are more prone because they lack the necessary diversity of life, but it doesn’t take long to build. Stay the path, and all is coming.
Biological Fungicides
Biological fungicides are useful (but not essential!), when pathogens start to dominate. You can, of course, simply plug away at creating your diverse, strong orchard without them, but if you feel you need something, they’re well proven. But, once again, a new mind set is required – they’re very different from the ‘instant fix’ fungicides we’ve been used to.
- Biological fungicides are alive! Like EM, or compost tea – they have a use by date, so buy small and use up. Sharing a bottle is a great idea.
- They perform best in a diverse, natural, living environment – be sure to be heading in this direction.
- They need to be applied early, onto emerging foliage in spring. This gives the beneficial organisms time to establish and get a head start on the pathogens. Repeat as required, following the advice on the bottle.
Biological fungicides are not easy to get for the home gardener, but you asking for them will make them easier to obtain in time. Ask for NZ made biological fungicide or Botryzen. Here’s a list of Botryzen stockists. Commercial packs are a great option for co-ops.
If a particular tree is consistently hammered by disease in your carefully crafted set up – consider letting it go. Find a variety better suited to your conditions. Local gardeners are great help here.
Copper + Sulfur
Once upon a time, I used to advise copper, and or sulfur, to clean up poorly fruit trees, but over time two things happened to shift my mindset. I began to understand and trust natural processes – all those biological checks and balances that take place to keep our plants well, and with my new mindset I saw how hard hitting copper and sulfur were – residues on our dinner plate, leaching into water tables and killing of soil life.
Without life, nature cannot function at optimum: nutrient conversion, disease management and immune support are all compromised ergo lots of sprays are needed to keep trees “healthy” and yet the more sprays used the more problems ensue and the more sprays are needed – so inefficient!
Life is the answer, support life and strengthen your garden web. A good set up is all the answer you need.
Hi – Could you please tell me if I can use copper and lime sulphur sprays on citrus? I have what look like rust spots on my lemon trees at the moment. Thanks!
Good to check – most definately not lime sulfur! You can use copper – usually late autumn depending on what you’ve got going on. How about you send through a piccy.
Hi Kath,
Avo,s they seem to have quite yellow leaves?
How best to make soil ph about 6.7
cheers Carina
Hi Carina
Is the soil at the base of your Avocado’s wet, or heavy clay, or sand?
cheers
Hi Kath what do you use on Codling moth which my apple trees were suffering from last Summer?
Hi Shona – I’ve never had to deal with serious codling moth but I really like the approach of this article here https://thisnzlife.co.nz/organic-methods-control-codling-moth.
Thanks so much Kath lots of ideas to try.
Cheers